Idyllic and irresistibly quaint, “Rafters” at the Riverside House Hotel is a 14-bedroom Restaurant with Rooms, situated on the river Wye in the picturesque village of Ashford-in-the-Water.
This Grade II-listed mansion was once the haunt of the upper classes when it served as a shooting lodge for the nearby Chatsworth Estate. Although elegant Georgian features remain, including a grand fireplace and staircase in the reception lobby, things are much more relaxed and friendly these days. The ambience is warm and inviting. Fine dining, it most certainly is. Imaginative, modern, and British.
Local couple John and Alex Hill teamed up with restaurateur and UK top 100 sommelier, Alistair Myers, in the summer of 2020 to take over and fully refurbish the Riverside House Hotel. Alistair, who also owns the nationally recognised three-AA Rosette restaurant, Rafters in Sheffield, has always had a focus on quality, sustainability and locality which breathes through everything he does.
Rafters at the Riverside is already on the ascent, having been awarded a whole host of awards. These include 5 AA Gold Stars, 2 AA Rosettes, a “Notable Wine List” and a “Breakfast Award” from AA Hospitality. They were also crowned “Hotel of the Year” at the 2022 Peak District & Derbyshire Tourism Awards.
Rafters at The Riverside boasts three unique dining rooms. The main dining room seats up to 30 guests and the Range Room is a traditional dining room with the original features of the house. The private dining room is the perfect venue for a private party of 8-14 guests. The hotel consists of two Superior bedrooms, ‘Rafters’ and ‘Kingfisher’, four House Rooms on the 1st floor of the original building and 8 bedrooms in the Garden Wing extension, 4 of which have their own private terrace.
An offering of tasty snacks/amuse-bouches was presented at the bar, as the culinary journey was about to begin. Cured salmon and sesame taco, with goji berry hot sauce and a posh “cheese on toast” whipped oak smoked cheddar on toasted brioche, with pickled onions and roasted onion ketchup paved the way for the unique tasting experience that was to follow.
The informal, yet smart, staff attire – smart denim, brown brogues, crisp white shirts and professional aprons – keep things inclusive for all.
General Manager, Jamie Fullwood, and Assistant Manager, Carlos Monteiro, possess a fountain of knowledge and experience on the smooth running of a fine dining restaurant, and sommelier, Will Cooper, has at his fingertips an encyclopaedic understanding of all things wine related. This, complemented by the passion and expertise of three top chefs, makes for a culinary match made in heaven.
Rafters at The Riverside offers an enticing three-course à la carte dinner menu as well as a tasting menu. To get a deeper connection with the chef and to sample a more diverse offering, we opted for the tasting menu. A scrumptious breakfast is also available for non-residents, which is perfect for before or after a healthy walk in the stunning Peak District countryside – with both dogs and walkers most welcome.
“A Taste of Riverside” is the tasting menu with optional wine pairings. This is the ultimate culinary voyage, showcasing the chefs’ extraordinary skills. The tasting menu offers true cooking craftsmanship with intricately prepared cuisine which celebrates the harvest of each season. The exquisite flavours bring together modern flair and traditional British cuisine, with every dish presented immaculately for a treat for all the senses.
A nod to the Steel City’s beloved condiment, Henderson’s Relish, is given in the ‘Hendo’s Butter’ served with slices of warm Black Treacle and Granary bread. Black Treacle’s sweet richness is brilliantly tempered by the sharp notes of spirit vinegar, tamarind, cloves and garlic in the Hendo’s, and chef achieves the butter’s mousseline texture by using the ice cream maker.
Course one – the charred Cornish mackerel with buttermilk, jalapeno, green strawberry, and coriander paired with a ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Polish wine – provided an intelligent and well thought out fusion of flavours. The tour de force was the texture and taste, the freshness of the mackerel balanced with the warmth and spiciness of the jalapeno, complemented with a touch of sweetness from the buttermilk. Notes of strawberry emerged from both the dish and the wine. The lightly pressed wine offered a colouring and taste associated with a blush Provence style rosé.
Course two –Tempura battered courgette flower stuffed with smoked ricotta, and served with courgette slaw, and finished with a Yuzu and basil broth was paired with an Albarino, Bodegas Ledas 2022, from Rias Biaxas, in Spain. The sweetness and softness of the courgette harmonised perfectly with the crunch of the tempura, with elements of citrus emerging from the Yuzu. The fragrant fruit driven wine was elevated by the sea breeze from this coastal winery. Subtle and delicately created, nothing overpowered this magnificent rainbow of flavours.
Course three – Derbyshire lamb belly, with lamb fat focaccia, lamb confit mayonnaise, Jerusalem artichoke, and roasted garlic emulsion was paired with a Lebanese Chateau Musar 2017, Gaston Hochar, from the Bekka Valley. The lamb was incredibly tender, the richness from the fat providing added comfort, warmth, and flavour. The focaccia offered added bounce. The earthiness and warmth from the wine mirrored and reinforced the flavours from the dish. The flavour cohesion elevated the experience.
Course four – the Creedy Carver duck with fermented honey glaze, baby beetroots, and a Lapsang Souchong sauce, was paired with Lawson’s Hills Pinot Noir, from Marlborough, New Zealand. The tenderness of the duck was balanced beautifully with the crunch and texture of the fermented honey and tea crust. This was ‘off piste’ in a positive way. Impressive, yet classical. The pinot noir worked wonderfully with this dish. Fresh and light with a depth of fruitiness and notes of plum and cherry, this was the perfect complement.
Course five – Amalfi lemon posset with fresh raspberries and honeycomb offered a harmonious balance of sweet and sharp. Tartness and acidity from the fresh strawberries mingled well with the lightness from the cheesecake and the sugary element of the honeycomb. A prefect palate cleanser after a stunning savoury adventure.
Course six – the ‘Tiramisu’ with mascarpone ice cream, spiced ginger cake, coffee liquor gel, and crystalised hazelnuts was next up. Warmth and sweetness were counterbalanced by the crunch from the hazelnuts with an added kick from the ginger.
The dessert wine was Gutiérrez Colosía Pedro Ximénez from Jerez in Spain. With the grapes being picked late, this deeper and sweeter sherry offered a whole host of notes, including hints of prune, chocolate, raisins, and even liquorice. Absolutely delicious and the ideal pairing for the desserts.
‘The Taste of Riverside’ is a culinary expedition, a journey into an amalgamation and intermingling of subtle flavours, beautifully harmonised with exquisite skill. It presents a timeline of evolving tastes – each to be savoured and relished. Like any new safari worth its salt, this unforgettable trip will be long remembered after the last morsel of food has been enjoyed and the final sip of wine has been appreciated.
For more details:
Breakfast and Brunch: Mon 8.00 – 10.00am, Thurs – Sun 8.00 – 11.30am
Afternoon Tea: Thurs – Sat 12.00 – 4.00 pm
Lunch: Sat & Sun 12:30 – 2.30pm
Dinner:Weds, Thurs, Sun 6.30 – 8:00pm Fri & Sat 6.30 – 8.30pm
Closed: Mon from midday, Tues all day
Rafters at The Riverside
Fennel Street
Ashford-in-the-Water
Bakewell
Derbyshire
DE45 1QF
T: 01629 814275
riversidehousehotel.co.uk