Jewellery Gems

Jade and diamond ring and a pair of earrings, set with an oval jade cabochon, and brilliant cut diamonds. These had an estimate of £400-500 but made over three times more, selling for £1,600.

By Vivienne Milburn FRICS Independent Antiques Auctioneer & Valuer

From Derbyshire to China. This jade and diamond jewellery was purchased by a Chinese lady from Beijing in a recent live online auction for £1,600. The colour of the jade was particularly appealing for the Chinese market.

Jade and diamonds continue to be some of the most meaningful gems in the market. While diamonds have long held centre stage, the appetite for coloured gemstones is stronger than ever. 

Collectors are looking for stones with a vivid colour, good provenance and ideally untreated (stones are sometimes treated with heat to improve their clarity and colour). Set in large, dramatic pieces such as cocktail rings, sizable necklaces, bold cuffs, statement earrings and things that make a visual impact. 

Buyers are increasingly concerned with where stones and metals come from, how they are treated and whether the piece is natural. Vintage and antique pieces benefit in this respect, as they often carry less environmental cost than newly mined gems.

Jade is seeing a renaissance, not only in Asia but increasingly in Western collections. There is a fashion for re-imagining jade, mixing it with diamonds or other gems and using contemporary settings, blending tradition with modern design. 

Jade gemstones carry deep cultural, emotional and symbolic weight, which helps explain their sustained value at auction. Especially in Chinese culture, where jade has been prized for millennia, called the “stone of heaven.” It is seen as a symbol of virtue, wisdom and kindness. 

Diamonds remain symbols of eternity, purity and strength. They are the archetypal “luxury” gem in Western tradition, often used to represent love, commitment and prestige. Natural diamonds still command premium prices, especially when they have good clarity and colour.

However, Lab-grown diamonds are increasingly present, for those concerned with ethical or environmental issues. They offer similar aesthetics, at lower cost and with fewer concerns about sourcing. This is influencing what people buy at auctions and the price they will pay.

Jewellery auctions are more dynamic than ever. Buyers are seeking stories and substance as much as sparkle. Diamonds and jade – with its deep cultural resonance and beauty – continue to command respect. The highest value pieces tend to combine beauty, rarity and meaning.

• If you require a valuation, it is worth getting the advice of an Independent Antiques Valuer to assess your works of art and antiques. For more information, contact Vivienne Milburn on 07870 238788 /  01629 640210, email vivienne@viviennemilburn.co.uk or go to www.viviennemilburn.co.uk