Move over Bordeaux, Marlborough and Mendoza English wines are enjoying a major moment. And, as Fiona Stubbs discovers, Derbyshire vineyards are producing some fine vintages.
HIGH on a Peak District hillside, under the gritstone gaze of Stanage Edge, lie rows of pristine vines. Walkers are often stopped in their tracks when they stumble across Hope Valley Vineyard – a beautiful, yet surprising, enterprise more than 900ft above sea level.
The family-run vineyard at Carr Head Farm is lovingly nurtured by Michael and Mary Bailey. It’s an idyllic spot, with sweeping views of the Hope Valley and the village of Hathersage – famous for its Charlotte Bronte connections – nestling in the valley below.
Michael and Mary are joined by members of their family when they harvest the grapes each year.
Michael says: “At this height above sea level, the altitude works against us but the south-west facing slopes work in our favour, absorbing the sun’s rays and ensuring the soil is well drained.”
The vines may also benefit from a unique ingredient, as Michael reveals: “Carr Head means ‘edge of the marshes’. The vines are fed from the area’s natural spring water.”
Carr Head was once a hamlet consisting of five dwellings, each with a parcel of land. It dates back to the 1600s. Mary’s family has lived in the area for generations and both she and Michael have fascinating stories to share.
The vineyard began as a retirement project for the couple. Michael, a former mechanical engineer, took a course in viticulture at Plumpton College in Essex and extensively researched the types of grapes most suited to the northern hemisphere.
As a result, four types of grape are grown at Carr Head: Solaris, Madeleine Angevine and Seyval Blanc for white wines and Rondo for reds.
After planting in 2014, Carr Head celebrated its first vintage in 2016. It now produces four exquisite award-winning wines: a medium bodied, lightly-oaked red with autumn berry flavours; a dry, crisp and fruity white; a light sparkling white and a delicious, summery sparkling rose – a combination of Seyval Blanc and Rondo grapes. All are produced in Staffordshire by the professional winemaker of Halfpenny Green vineyard.
The 1.5-acre vineyard has 31 rows of vines, with a rose bush at the end of each row. Michael explains: “The roses were a compromise with Mary. She initially wanted to grow lavender in the field, whereas I thought a vineyard was a bit more adventurous! Mary said that if there was a rose at the end of each row, then we could go with the vineyard.
“She has dedicated all of the roses to someone or something. Many people have planted their own rose.”
While the roses add colour and interest to the vines, there’s a scientific benefit too, says Michael: “Roses are prone to similar disease as vines but sometimes show signs of them a couple of weeks earlier.”
The vineyard occupies a special place in the heart of the Hathersage community… not least around harvest time.
Grape-picking is both a family and community affair, with renowned cook Mary’s harvest lunches and post-harvest parties a significant attraction. There’s another temptation, too. “At harvest, people can drink what they picked last year,” grins Mary. “We have a wonderful mix of people from the village who help – the locals have been amazing in their support.”
For the last nine years, Carr Head has hosted the annual Vineyard Challenge, originating from an inspiration from grandson Charlie, and organised by the Fat Boys running club. A group of local men and women run up and down every row of vines to raise money for charity. “They describe themselves as a drinking club with a running problem,” adds Mary.
Throughout the vineyard, there are references to people close to Mary and Michael, who have contributed to its charm. These include a rustic sculpture of the vineyard logo, initially created by grandson Fraser and featuring a triangle – the delta sign for change – with horseshoes forming a bunch of grapes. The sculpture is made from metal and covered with lead to reflect the area’s wealth, which grew out of lead mining.
A watercolour sketch of the vineyard, painted by an Australian friend, hangs in the licensed bottom stable on the farm where wines are tasted and sold – and also features on the labels of Carr Head wines.
The retirement adventure clearly suits Michael and Mary, who exude warmth and enthusiasm for their craft.
While they have no plans to expand or to sell to wholesalers, Michael sees great potential for wine production in the UK.
He says: “About one million new vines are planted in the UK each year and between 10 and 20 million bottles of English wine are produced annually. But in the UK we drink an estimated 1.7 billion bottles per year – so there are substantial opportunities for producers.
“Personally, I enjoy the physical side of it – it’s good to be out in the fresh air. It’s nice to work all summer and to have created something. I’m very proud of what we’ve achieved – it’s very fulfilling.”
Tours of Hope Valley Vineyard are by appointment. Go to www.hopevalleyvineyard.co.uk
Discovering other Derbyshire vineyards
WINE production is being hailed as the UK’s fastest growing agricultural sector.
Figures released in July by WineGB – the national association for the English and Welsh wine industry – revealed the number of UK vineyards has this year exceeded 1,000 for the first time with 1,030 now registered. Sales of English and Welsh wines also rose by 10% in 2023.
While the majority of UK vineyards are in the south, the Midlands has been producing wine since the 1970s… and, from the Hope Valley to the south of the county, Derbyshire can boast some fine examples.
Amber Valley Vineyards, Wessington
A family-run vineyard and orchard; grapes and apples are grown to regenerative agricultural principles, helping soil to capture and store more carbon and to harness beneficial ecosystems for the vines.
Its wine list includes a signature ‘orange’, which goes by its ancient name, Amber Wine. In addition to its award-winning wines, the business also released its first cider, in 2023.
Events are held throughout the year, including monthly summer markets, dinners in the orchard, vineyard tours and tastings. Learn more at www.ambervalleyvineyards.co.uk
Renishaw Hall, English Wine Project
Planted in the grounds of Renishaw Hall in 1972, this was recognised as the most northerly vineyard in the country until 1986.
In 2011, the vineyard was taken over by award-winning winemaker Kieron Atkinson, owner of The English Wine Project. It hosts public tours on selected Sundays. For details, visit www.englishwineproject.co.uk
Matlock Wines, Cuckoostone Valley Vineyard
Launched in 2019, by Pete Walden and Andy Page, this 1.5 acre, steeply sloping, south-facing vineyard sits more than 800ft above sea level, in the heart of Cuckoostone Dale.
It grows three grape varieties: Rondo, Pinot Precosse and Seyval Blanc, all of which thrive in cool climates. Learn more at www.matlockwines.co.uk
Scaddows Vineyard, Ticknall, South Derbyshire
Owned by a farming family originally specialising in soft fruits, the business has diversified into viticulture and now has an established vineyard producing award-winning wines. For details of vineyard tours and tastings and Cellar Door Shop, visit www.scaddowsfarm.co.uk