Originally known as Rowsley Manor, The Peacock at Rowsley had been built as a residence for John Stevenson, a steward on the Haddon Hall Estate, whose name is carved in the semi-circular pediment above the front door.
When a 19th century traveller described the Peacock as ‘the beau ideal of a snug English country hostelry’, the building had only been serving as a hotel since 1832. It soon gained renown for being one of the prettiest hotels in England.
When writing about Derbyshire in his King’s England series, Arthur Mee waxed lyrically about the hostelry as ‘a joy to see, a study of gables and mullioned windows dating from 1652’.
Over the years, many well-known people have been guests at the Peacock, including Baden-Powell, founder of the Scout Movement, who stayed there in 1907 during a fishing trip undertaken with his brother. The painter and sculptor Edwin Landseer, best known for creating the lion sculptures in Trafalgar Square, stayed there with his family in 1868.
Famous actors who have spent time at the Peacock include Douglas Fairbanks, who visited with Mary Pickford in 1924 whilst she was making the silent film Dorothy Vernon of Haddon Hall, and Lillie Langtry, the actress who was the mistress of the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII. More recently, Dame Judi Dench was a guest during the shooting of scenes from Jane Eyre at Haddon Hall, as was Keira Knightley when she was filming Pride and Prejudice. Jude Law also dined there during the filming of ‘Firebrand’.
Lord Edward Manners made The Peacock part of the Haddon Estate again by buying it back in 2003. They embarked on refurbishing it the following year.
With more than three centuries of history under its belt, the Peacock has character in spades. From the outside it’s all country charm with lattice windows and the river Derwent babbling along past the bottom of the garden. The interior, however, has been tastefully renovated to retain the rustic elegance of such a delightful iconic building, whilst catering for the luxuries and comfort needed for modern-day hospitality. ‘Mousey Thompson’ furnishings and antique oil paintings are juxtaposed with modern lighting and contemporary art.
The Peacock bar is an historic sanctuary lit by storybook lanterns and flickering logs. The 19th-century cock-fighting chair retains pride of place, and the walls are adorned by the most majestic of paintings.
Head chef Dan Smith, who trained with Tom Aikens, serves up inventive, multi-layered dishes that make good use of locally produced, seasonal ingredients. Wherever possible, the Haddon Estate is used as the source for the ingredients – the venison from there is not to be missed!
A Michelin-trained chef, Dan, together with his team, including Sous Chef, Simon Shardlow, have earned The Peacock a place in the top 10% of restaurants in the country with 3 AA Rosettes.
The front-of-the-house team is headed by General Manager, Laura Ball, and Restaurant Manager, Valentine Blain, who have been at The Peacock for 20 years and 7 years, respectively. They are ably supported by restaurant supervisors, James and Poppy.
Shown into the dining room after pre-dinner drinks, we were seated under the watchful eyes of Lord Robert Manners (the portrait of course), who was killed on April 12, 1782.
The two starters were beautifully prepared by a true artist, with flavours balanced with skill and care. The seasonal shift from summer to autumn was captured brilliantly – both in terms of added warmth and richness of colour. The smoked salmon tartare, with bagel crisps, cream cheese, and beetroot provided a rainbow of tastes and colours. The tenderness, freshness, and smokiness of the salmon was harmonised with the creaminess from the cheese and given a flavour shot from the acidity and sharpness of the beetroot and the crunch of the crisps.
The poached Saint Ewes egg, with wild mushrooms, rosti potato, hazelnut, and watercress velouté also followed the changing seasons. Rich and comforting, yet not overpowering, this dish also mastered the art of balance. The richness from the yolk, the texture from the mushrooms, the crunch from the hazelnut – everything counterbalanced beautifully.
Next up were the main courses. The Haddon Estate venison leg, with king oyster mushroom, Swiss chard, and crushed pumpkin was a masterpiece in contrasting and complementing tastes. The venison was tender and cooked to perfection – you barely needed to press the knife down to cut it! The orange and dark green colours reflected the arrival of the Fall, and every ingredient served a purpose on the plate. You could taste the attention to detail in all the ingredients. The palate doesn’t lie. You could taste the thought process through every single morsel.
The fish of the day was Stone Bass, which was served with black olives, fennel, octopus, potato, roasted black garlic, and Provençale sauce. The fresh, mild, sweet taste of the fish was nicely complemented by the crispiness of its skin and the warmth of the other ingredients, and further reinforced and enhanced by the roasted black garlic.
After a nice break, we were served with our desserts – chocolate orange trifle and salted caramel parfait.
The trifle boasted a stunning mingling of flavours. The richness and warmth of the chocolate was nicely matched with the lightness of the mousse, the bounciness of the sponge, the freshness and zinginess of the orange, and a certain cheeriness and texture from the peel. Perfect harmony!
The salted caramel parfait with apple compote, caramelised pastry, and vanilla cream was equally satisfying. The elements of sour and sweet worked perfectly, as did the lightness of the parfait against the texture of the apple. Truly scrumptious!
A masterclass in using quality, locally sourced, and seasonal ingredients, and letting them shine, this is a culinary experience not to be missed. There are plenty of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options, and the wine and drinks menu are a feast for the eyes of any would-be sommelier.
Impressive and homely, without being ostentatious or flouncy, The Peacock provides a relaxed and cosy ambience, backed up with excellent cuisine. The sotto voce service treads a lovely line between formal and friendly.
With 15 comfortable rooms, The Peacock is also a mecca for anglers, who can fish by the side of the River Derwent, which spumes along at the foot of the hotel and is the only river in Britain with wild rainbow trout.
Whether you’re a local, a walker, a tourist, a day tripper, or a fisherman, The Peacock at Rowsley is most certainly the place to visit.
The Peacock at Rowsley,
Bakewell Road, Rowsley,
Derbyshire, DE4 2EB
T: 01629 733 518
e: reception@thepeacockatrowsley.com