In April, Ben Dalton set out on an epic challenge, tackling each of the Peak District’s 95 ‘Ethels’ in one continuous 500km journey over 10 days – wearing barefoot sandals.
With the Ethels – a collection of prominent hills – spanning the length and breadth of the National Park, Ben’s challenge would be the equivalent of an ultramarathon each day.
He succeeded – spurred on by his own determination, the support of family and friends and the warmth of strangers he met along the way.
Ben says: “I’ve gained a massive appreciation for people. It’s easy at the moment to see the negatives in the world but this has made me realise there are some really good people out there. The whole experience has helped me to be more positive about everything.”
Over the course of his incredible journey, Ben raised over £3000 to share between charities Mental Health UK and CPRE. He is now charting his experiences in a documentary film.
But first, he shares his diary of the challenge with Fiona Stubbs
Day One
My nerves jolted as the 4.45am alarm went off. The drive up to the start at Wessenden Head felt very strange as I quietly contemplated what was to come, whilst also not quite believing the day was really here.
As I set off, my nerves settled and I fell into a familiar rhythm. Tom from Wildsole Sandals and videographer Jamie joined me for the first two Ethels – West Nab and Black Hill. Then it was time to head out on my own.
Black Chew Head and Ashway Moss came and went – I was starting to quite enjoy it. The next section was steep downhill, with a couple of slips on my bum.
The ascent of Alphin Pike was steep and brought me back into the bog. I lost one of my bottles of water somewhere, but I couldn’t turn back.
The steep downhill, onset of rain and knowing I had to reascend was a low point. I stuck Thursday Murder Club on Audible, pulled my hood firmly on and made the steep and long ascent of White Low in sideways rain. It seemed like bog, bog and more bog from here.
After Britland Edge Hill and Snailsden Pike, the sun came back and there was an amazing rainbow, quickly followed by two cute lambs cuddling. Seeing this, along with some warmth back in my body, helped to push me on past Dead Edge End and to my camp spot. With 55.5km covered, I would sleep well after seeing a lovely sunset.
Day Two
Raining from 3am to 5.30am – not the best motivation for getting up, but packed up and walking by 6.45am.
Jamie and Tom accompanied me for the start, but relentless bog meant I was on my own sooner today. The bog really distorted my sense of distance, weaving along paths that came and went, with long periods enclosed by steep black walls of peat.
Ticked off Margery Hill and the next couple of Ethels. Just before Back Tor, I reached a decent path – a welcome sight. As I went up and over the Ethel, I saw Jamie’s drone and was excited to see a friendly face after a gruelling morning. Passed onto Lost Lad, then Jamie and I walked down to Derwent Dam and met my brother.
He bought me a coffee. God, it tasted good! Then we headed to Bleaklow, bumping into someone who was shocked at my footwear and even more shocked to learn how far I planned to go.
Then it was back into the bog and the weather changing from sun to drizzle every few minutes, until settling on sideways rain. I met my wife, Ellie, at Chunal and ate an entire bag of nuts which gave me a second wind. Carried on further than planned to Cown Edge and set up camp in a stunning setting, with views over Manchester.
Day Three
Woke up in a cloud surrounded by sheep. Realised how close I was to Manchester airport with low flying planes during the night.
Summited Cown Edge, then Birch Vale and down a track towards New Mills. My body felt stronger than the day before – amazing what some sun and an absence of bog can do.
Breezed through Black Hill and Sponds Hill. On to Eccles Pike and Chinley Churn. I’d forgotten how steep sections of both were – but great views. Made quick time weaving through the boggy uphill to Brown Knoll. Whilst recording on the GoPro at the top, a group of lads on DofE excitedly asked by if I was a YouTuber. When I said no, it’s for a documentary about my hike, they were much less interested…
Weaved up onto the Kinder Plateau to Kinder Low and then along the amazing edge with its sculpture park of rock formations. The descent from Grindslow Knoll was not what I needed at the end of the day – 1.5km of steep downhill on loose rocky terrain on tired legs.
Day Four
Woke to frozen raindrops on the tent. My legs felt very stiff as I ambled through Edale but managed a quick 250m+ steep ascent of Lord’s Seat – just what my legs needed to kick into gear. The views at the top, back across to Mam Tor were incredible; the light, the cloud inversion and barely a person around at this time.
Looped around Gautries Hill, Eldon Hill and Slitherstone Hill before heading to Mam Tor. Met a lovely man with two young daughters. He messaged later to say it was inspiring for his daughters to meet people like me. It’s a weird feeling being somebody who could be inspiring; it’s never how I’ve viewed myself.
After Lose Hill, a long trek to Crook Hill. Approaching the summit, suddenly realised I had missed Bradwell Moor. Calling my wife, Ellie, helped settle me. I took a few deep breaths and started to think. Devised a plan to do it the following morning, after Durham Edge, which would add about 15km to my journey.
Carried on to Ladybower and met Jamie, who had a coffee and Snickers waiting for me – just the boost I needed before heading up and down Win Hill at a crazy pace. Focused on making up ground to get back on track after collecting the missed Ethel.
On the long arching ascent to High Neb, it started to rain, smattered with hail stones. Took the boggy route from Stanage Pole to White Path Moss and decided to push on further than planned, taking in Higger Tor before descending into Hathersage.
Day Five
A steep blast up Burton Bole and Durham Edge, then off to Bradwell Moor. A dog walker was really interested in the challenge, which lifted me.
Heading to Sir William Hill, the wind was really strong and the road seemed never ending. Next came Wardlow Hay Cop, Longstone Moor and Fin Cop, with excellent views down into the valley.
The walk to Taddington felt long as my legs started to fade a little. This was the evening meet point but first I had to pass through and do Sough Top and Chelmorton Low. I felt a really strong wind on my back as I walked over the fairly flat top, with lots of stiles. But the wind was against me when I turned back, like walking through treacle.
Day Six
A fairly gentle walk past Magpie Mine and onto Bole Hill. Arrived in Bakewell at morning rush hour. It felt really strange after spending so much time in remote areas – a blast of reality.
A meander through Lees Wood in dappled sunlight felt rejuvenating. Just after Calton Lees, Jamie joined me and we walked up to the top of the track beneath Harland Edge.
A group of people were interested in what we were doing with the camera kit. I’m finding an increased sense of pride with each of these interactions as I tell them the distance I have covered. Blasted up the hill, managing to fall into a bog with just my right foot, leaving a very different feeling in each foot until it dried.
Got to Nine Ladies stone circle and sat down to meditate, with five minutes of box breathing, trying to soak up the energy of Stanton Moor.
Next was Blakelow Hill and Harthill Moor. Middleton to the Pennine Bridleway was a steady uphill trudge on tarmac for around 6km. Some cows decided to follow me for a short while – made me smile after a tough day.
Day Seven
Carder Low, Pilsbury Hill and High Wheeldon. Views of Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill spurred me on as these are probably my favourite Ethels.
Powered up the steep slope of Parkhouse Hill, with a few more stumbles on the scrambly section near the top than would be usual and a lot more time getting on my bum on the descent. It’s been a readjustment, taking the mantra of “nothing risky” as this is not my usual MO. But this challenge is about longevity.
Over to High Edge, Hollins Hill and Grin Low – with Solomon’s temple on top. Jamie was there with the drone and there was an interested group waiting for me at the top of the tower. They were also doing the Ethels, aiming to complete them in a year.
Jamie walked from here to Corbar Hill – the last time I’d see him until the end of the challenge.
By Black Edge and Coombs Head, my energy levels were definitely dipping. This was my biggest elevation day. Burbage Edge had an unbelievably steep final ascent, up a peaty slope, where grip was difficult. The way up to Foxlow Edge was through a fairly dense woodland and I was grateful of the shade.
Day Eight
A windy night in the worst camp spot so far and I woke up the stiffest yet. Cold start for the walk to Cats Tor and Shining Tor. Walking towards the Cat & Fiddle, the weather brightened. I started to reflect on how well my body had held up and, for the first time, I truly felt confident I would finish. Felt an intense gratitude and, for the first time in my life, I cried out of happiness.
Whetstone Ridge, Axe Edge Moor, Oliver Hill and Cheeks Hill came and went as the weather continued to brighten. Then it was the long trek over to Shuttlingsloe – aka the ‘Matterhorn of Cheshire’ – then Croker Hill.
The end of the day turned into a real plod, the heat and long periods without shade took its toll. At the meet point, I wolfed down enough food to feed a family of four.
Day Nine
Up and over Gun, with scary dogs wrestled by a man struggling to keep them under control on the lead. He was both impressed by what I was doing and thought I was mad.
Skirted under The Roaches before ascending at the far end. Up and down Hen Cloud quickly before heading to Ramshaw Rocks. The next five Ethels were ones I had walked from home on a big training outing, and it was nice reminder that the finish was in sight.
Found welcome shade in the woods just below Revidge. I’d badly stubbed my right little toe, grabbing onto barbed wire as I tried to stop myself from falling and gashing my pinky finger on my right hand quite badly. So this break was much-needed. Fortunately, the toe began to ease and I could return to a somewhat normal walk, taking in Ecton and Wetton hills and Musden Low. Arriving at Dovedale, there were hoardes of people and I could tell I was more tired than normal as I felt impatient waiting for a big group to cross the bridge with cool boxes, deck chairs etc.
After Thorpe Cloud and Tissington Hill, the sun was starting to set for the descent to Milldale. As the last of the light faded, I climbed into bed, knowing that this was my last night in the tent.
Day Ten
Awake from 4am, riding a wave of excitement for the final push – Wolfescote Hill, Aleck Low, Minninglow, Harboro Rocks and Bolehill. A short walk into Alstonefield to meet my dad. A public loo gave an opportunity for a good teeth clean, definitely needed as I hadn’t been as consistent as normal.
Meeting Ellie, Jamie and a group of friends, I realised how much I had depleted since the start, asking the group to slow down as my body struggled to keep pace. I was uncharacteristically quiet. Plodding along the High Peak Trail, it felt like home turf – but as if someone had stretched the path and made it longer!
At Harboro Rocks, we scooped up my dad and another friend for one final Ethel. More people joined us and our group was nearly 20 strong. Ellie led us to the final trig; I waited behind, making the final ascent, much like most of the challenge, on my own. But this time, thoughts and reflections of the whole challenge were racing through my mind.
The emotions were different to what I’d imagined – more relief than overwhelming joy. But as I got to the top it was like I was back in my fresh body. I dropped by bag, whipped off my shirt and ran up the final stretch, touching the trig as I was sprayed in the face with fizz.
I couldn’t believe I had done it – I’m not sure if it will ever sink in. But the memory of being there and feeling so lucky to have so many amazing people around me will stay with me forever.