For Derbyshire creative Netty Lou Sumner, old clothes and treasured fabrics are not waste – they are memories waiting to be stitched into something new, as Fiona Stubbs discovers
Netty Sumner is all smiles as she arrives at the café and places an instantly recognisable jacket over the back of a chair.
It’s an oatmeal-coloured Betty Jackson linen mix jacket, discovered on Vinted, that Netty is slowly bringing back to a stylish new life, using the Japanese hand-stitching technique of Sashiko.
It looks even better in real life than it did on her recent Instagram post – and represents a new chapter for her business, Netty Lou.
“It’s not a business as such – it’s a story,” says Netty. “It’s a story of things, taking pre-loved clothes and old fabrics in a different direction – helping people to appreciate what they already own and re-loving it.”
Netty’s ethos is rooted in re-use, repair and the belief that an item’s story does not end when it becomes worn, torn or tired. Instead, it can become wearable, beautiful and loved again.
“Recently I’ve found myself slowing down, looking more closely and really thinking about the ‘why’ behind what I do,” explains Riddings-based Netty. “It’s about recognising what feels most true to me – natural fabrics, mending, slow sewing, continuous learning and working with my hands in a way that feels thoughtful and intentional.
“It brings uniqueness, a sense of expression and imagination, reusing what we already own and not throwing things away. It’s the opposite to fast fashion, which pays people pennies to make items that are worn a couple of times, then discarded. Why would you want to invest in that?
“I think people are becoming more aware now that fast fashion isn’t a good thing – the idea of re-love, re-use, repair is becoming much more of a movement.”
In many ways, Netty – who has over 35 years of experience in fashion, textiles and interiors – is returning to her roots. She studied fashion and textiles at college from the age of 16 and went on to work in handmade interiors, as well as in a fabric shop. By the age of 19, she had her own business making wedding dresses.
Creativity remained a constant as life took her elsewhere. Her husband, Jay, was in the military and the couple lived in Germany and Cyprus. In Cyprus, Netty could not work because jobs were reserved for Cypriots, so she taught sewing to other military wives and partners. She also made wedding dresses and ball gowns.
Returning to the UK, the couple first settled in Norfolk before a move to Derbyshire two years ago brought a kind of epiphany.
“I started to think about consumption and the sheer quantity of clothes I owned,” Netty recalls. “When we moved, I said: ‘I’m not going to buy any new clothes.’”
Around the same time, she began attending networking events and meeting new people. “I think I was searching for connection – but it also brought me back to the skills that I have learned over all these years and how I want to share them.”
As well as breathing new life into her own clothes – or upcycling charity shop finds – Netty helps other people to re-purpose garments. These have included transforming a denim jacket with crocheted flowers for a teenage girl and helping someone to create a new top from her late father’s shirts.
Other projects include creating memory toys from once-loved clothes and even homewares – such as her own favourite cushion, made from a flannel check shirt, an old pair of jeans and leftover hemp fabric from a handmade dress.
“It got me wondering how many stories these different fabrics could tell,” reveals Netty. “How many adventures have these old jeans had? Who did they belong to and where did they wear them?”
Some of Netty’s own family fabrics are waiting for the right project, too, including pieces belonging to her late grandmother.
And mending remains close to her heart. “Japanese Sashiko can be used decoratively or for mending,” says Netty. “I’m using it more decoratively at the moment. I’ve got 24 stencils and I want to learn every one.
“But I believe that mending should be part of a garment’s story. Why have it mended? Make the mending visible, wear it as a badge of honour – a reminder of the adventures we’ve had.”
Netty is keen to pass on these skills, too. “I think my generation has that skill set to mend and I feel a bit of responsibility to pass it on,” she says. “It’s a legacy for future generations.”
Her plans include putting together repair kits and hosting small, unhurried workshops. “Running workshops and teaching people – that’s where I come alive, it’s my passion in life,” she smiles. “The joy from seeing people sitting together, stitching and creating something new from something old.”
It’s an approach that has already been a huge success through Netty’s nine-month Ripple Effect project.
Inspired by Sir David Attenborough’s film, Ocean, it led to the creation of a stunning dress made entirely from reused fabric, representing the ocean and incorporating more than 100 pieces of textile art.
People contributed designs and took part in printing, embroidery and slow-stitching workshops. The project reached beyond the immediate local community, with contributions from further afield, including someone in Scotland.
“It was a humbling and meaningful experience,” says Netty. “Every panel carried someone’s story, care and a piece of themselves. It was so magical bringing a community together through thread and fabric, watching something grow from individual pieces into a living, wearable thing.”
The dress reveal took place at Riddings Community Centre in May, on Sir David Attenborough’s 100th birthday. Ticket and cake sales raised more than £400 for the Marine Conservation Society. The dress is currently being exhibited in The Museum of Making, Derby.
Now Netty wants the ripple to continue through The Story of Things – through mending, slow sewing and the simple act of looking again at what we already own.
“The next chapter is about understanding the things already around us, and the stories they carry,” says Netty. “I’m learning to pause, look more closely and give something old the chance to become something loved again. I’m recognising – and celebrating – the layers of life.”
• Learn more at https://www.nettylou.co.uk/ and on Instagram @netty.lou
Pictures of Netty by Helen Rowan Photography